Contents
CLIMBS & EXPEDITIONS
The Gods Are Kind on Sura Peak
Barnaj II East
Yawash Sar I
Time Is a Construct
A Winter in the Alps
Marek Holoček
Callum Johnson
Nicholas Hurndall Smith
Jacob Cook
Tom Livingstone
3
14
24
37
47
BREAKING GLASS
‘A Tremendous Exertion for Ladies’
‘I Was Accompanied by My Wife’
In Her Nature
Why Do So Few Women Go on Expeditions?
‘A Delicate Sense of Balance’
Elaine Astill
Suzanne Strawther
Rachel Hewitt
Adèle Long
John Middendorf
57
66
72
75
80
ART & PHOTOGRAPHY
In the Light of Yosemite
In the Shadow of Nanga Parbat
The Light of the North
The Way Down
Robert Wylie Lloyd
John Cleare
David Seddon
Donald M Orr
Terry Gifford
Robin N Campbell
97
105
111
119
126
ENVIRONMENT & NATURE
Cold Comfort on Chomolungma
Meltdown
On the Future of Mountain Guiding
Annie Dare
Jim Langley
Victor Saunders
137
146
152
HISTORY
The Mountain Life of Robin Fedden
The Villain
The Aiguilles du Diable in Winter
One Hundred Years Ago
J G R Harding
Dennis Gray
John C Wilkinson
Peter Foster
161
175
189
207
AREA NOTES
The Alps 2022
Scottish Winter 2022-23
Nepal
India & Pakistan 2022
South America 2022-23
Mount Everest Foundation (MEF) Expedition Reports
Lindsay Griffin
Simon Richardson
Ian Wall
Timothy Elson & Ed Douglas
Marcelo Scanu
Adam Butterworth
215
234
238
255
272
287
REVIEWS
IN MEMORIAM
ALPINE CLUB NOTES
Foreword
Contributors
Index
301
350
373
vii
409
417