Contents
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HIGH ASIA
The Troubled Road to Karim Sar
To Get Closer
Ten Days on Vasuki Parbat
In The Realm of The Bear and Snow Leopard
Heat and Snow
More Than You Can Chew?
‘Mind the Gap’
The Great White Jade Heist
Pat Deavoll
Sandy Allan
Malcolm Bass
Derek Buckle
Dave Wynne-Jones
Andy Houseman
Mick Fowler
Bruce Normand

3
11
18
31
39
45
53
62
COMMENT
Awards and Recognition in Climbing
Playing The Game
Cri de Coeur From The Alps
Doug Scott
Lindsay Griffin
Rob Collister

75
83
91
SURVEYS
Trad (For Now) on Gran Canaria
Alpine Climbing in The Mountains of Cogne
Pat Littlejohn
Martin Gillie

137
143
REFLECTIONS
‘The past is a foreign country . . .’
A Year Off Work
Peter Gillman
Dick Isherwood

159
168
ENDS OF THE EARTH
Ski Mountaineering on The Frozen Continent
Chile Relish
Fairweather Friends
Greenland With The Wild Bunch
David Hamilton
Derek Buckle
Paul Knott
Bob Shepton

99
107
114
121
HISTORY
Annapurna Anniversaries
Everest Revealed?
Ama Dablam – 50 Years On
Mallory on The Ben
One Hundred Years Ago

Henry Day
Stephen Goodwin
George Rodway & Jeremy Windsor
Peter Gillman
C A Russell



181
190
193
199
206
ARTS
The Hidden Kingdom
Noyce’s Cambridge Mountaineering Poets
John Innerdale
Terry Gifford

217
223
SCIENCE
Mountains and Climate Change: A Global Concern


Thomas Kohler, Daniel Maselli & Urs Neu


233
AREA NOTES
Compiled and Edited by Paul Knott
242
The Alps 2009
Greenland 2009
Scottish Winter 2009-10
Kyrgyzstan 2008-10
Pakistan 2008-10
India 2009
Nepal 2009-10
China & Tibet 2009-10
New Zealand 2009-10
Peru 2008-9
Argentine Andes 2009-10
Antarctica 2009-10
Lindsay Griffin
Derek Fordham
Simon Richardson
Paul Knott
Dick Isherwood
Harish Kapadia
Dick Isherwood
John Town
Kester Brown
Antonio Gómez Bohórquez
Marcelo Scanu
Phil Wickens

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253
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262
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298
301
311
315
REVIEWS
335


In Memoriam

ALPINE CLUB NOTES

President’s Valedictory Address
Pamirs Pilgrimage
An Alpine Trophy –The Legendary Grépon Ice-axe

Officers and Committee
Contributors
Index

Cover
Titles
Contents Pages
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Paul Braithwaite
Stewart Hawkins

Michel Bataillon and André Moulin
403

457

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464

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476
477
483


Mount Everest Foundation Expedition Reports

Summarised by Bill Ruthven
319