Everest Golden Jubilee 1953-2003                                  George Band                3

The G I Finch Controversy of 1921-1924                         John B West                9

A New Map of the Everest Area                                     Michael Ward               18

The Location of Camp IX                                     Bradford Washburn               20


Hell to Pay: On Denali's Diamond                                       Ian Parnell              23

The North Face of Siguniang                                          Paul Ramsden              28

The Seven Pillars of Satling                                            Martin Moran              33

Kyzyl Asker                                                                    Guy Robertson              43

Mision Improbable:

   Climbing in Tenerife                                                     Pat Littlejohn              49

Kyajo Ri, Khumbu                                                         Duncan Wilson              52

Citrus Delights                                       Derek Buckle, Robert Durran,             

                                                               Roy Ruddle & Dave Wilkinson              57

Blind Date on Quitaraju                                                     Nick Bullock              73


The Alps of Tibet - Part II.             

   Revisiting the Nyenchentangla East                    Tamotsu Nakamura              81

Nyenang and the Nye Chu                                                    John Town              95

The Mountains of the Gangdise

   or Transhimalaya of Tibet                          Julian Freeman-Attwood              103

Cordillera Jamn Chacua, Peru                                  Evelio Echevarria              111

A Mountaineer's New Zealand                                             Paul Knott              116

Sailing and Mountaineering on the

   Antarctic Peninsula                                                       James Harris              123


The Evolution of Exploration                                         Ed Douglas              131

Commitment and Bolts in Patagonia                              Alan Mullin              139

Men, Mountains and Adventure                                 Walter Bonatti              143


Elijah Walton: His Life and Work                                 Elaine Astill              151

Altitude Illness - An Aide Memoire             P A Barry & A J Pollard            162 

Bill Tilman's Flower                                                        Ken Aldred              174


Down and Out in Kathmandu and Bombay                  Dennis Gray              179

Rising                                                                           Sharon Wood              188

Skye - Sixty Years Ago                                                John Jackson              196


The Pundits Beyond the Pamir                                   Michael Ward              203

Johnnie Lees: A Memoir                                          Denis Greenald              179

One Hundred Years Ago                                                C A Russell              216

AREA NOTES                                   Edited by Jose Luis Bermudez              223

Contributions from:

Antonio Gomez Bohorquez, Lindsay Griffin, Tony Howard, Harish Kapadia, Paul

Knott, Ade Miller, Simon Richardson.


Russia and Central Asia


Scotland (Winter)

Middle East and North Africa



North America

Cordillera Blanca

Mount Everest Foundation

Expedition Reports 2002                     Summarised by Bill Ruthven              290

In Memoriam                              Compiled by Geoffrey Templeman              301

Book Reviews                            Compiled by Geoffrey Templeman               335

Alpine Club Notes                                                                                            362

Contributors                                                                                                      374

Index                                                                                                                 381

Notes for Contributors                                                                                     388