Valedictory Address                                                   Doug Scott                1


Baintha Brakk: The Merciful Man-Eater                   Urs Stocker               13

Ama Dablam                                                      Jules Cartwright               18

Nilkanth West Ridge                                              Martin Moran               23

Cerro Autana, Venezuela                                            John Arran               31

Fathers and Sons                                                         Ian Parnell               37

Yamandaka                                                              Mark Wilford               43

EI Nino                                                                    Leo Houlding               50

Climbing in Miyar Nala, Himachal Pradesh   Antonella Cicogna

                                                                              & Mario Manica               54


The Alps of Tibet                                          Tamotsu Nakamura               61

Upper Kongpo Without a Paddle                                John Town

                                                                                & Derek Buckle              72

Climbing in the Atlas Mountains: A Survey        Hamish Brown               81

Kedar Dome on Ski                                                 Rob Collister               92

Adventures in the Maashey Valley                       Michael Doyle               95

Adventures under the Midnight Sun                        Jim Gregson             100

An Arctic Odyssey                                                John Starbuck              108


The Fight for Mountain Environments                  Peter B Stone              117

A Lateral Approach to Himalaya                                Bill Aitken              132

Human Rights and Access Freedoms:

   Is Nature a Missing Link?                              Alan Blackshaw               139

Changing Fashions in Expedition Grants                Bill Ruthven               144

Correspondence                                                       Jerry Lovatt

                                                                                    Alan Lyall               149

                                                                 Miriam Claude Meijer               151


A Brief History of Mountain Illustration            Walt Unsworth               155

John Muir: His Contribution as a

   Mountaineering Writer                                       Terry Gifford               161

The Art of Julian Cooper                                Stephen Goodwin               169


A Monk Between Hell and Heaven                       Terry Gifford              177     

The Monch in Winter                                        Dave Wilkinson               178

Turning Back the Clock                                          Les Swindin               181


Confessions of a Parvenu                                         Dennis Gray              189

Peaks, Politics and Purges: the First Ascent

  of Pik Stalin                                                       Stuart Horsman              199

Ararat: Another Controversial First Ascent           Edward Peck               207     

Arnold Lunn                                                    Elisabeth Hussey                216

The Pundits and the Pamir                                   Michael Ward                222     

Pib: A Memoir of Colin Pibworth                        Frank Card                230   

From the Archives                                                     Peter Berg                237

One Hundred Years Ago                                          C A Russell                240

AREA NOTES                            Edited by Jose Luis Bermudez               247

Contributions from:

Lindsay Griffin, Dave Hamilton, Tony Howard, Harish Kapadia, Paul Knott,

Simon Richardson.

Mount Everest Foundation:

   Expedition Reports 2001            Summarised by Bill Ruthven               297

Book Reviews                      Compiled by Geoffrey Templeman               310

In Memoriam                       Compiled by Geoffrey Templeman               331

Alpine Club Notes                                                                                     349

Contributors                                                                                               358

Index                                                                                                          364

Notes for Contributors                                                                               371