An Essay for the New Millennium                   Reinhold Messner              3

1937 and the Pull of Ushba                                  Robin Hodgkin              14

About Kanjiroba                                                         John Tyson              21

Mountaineering in the Tien Shan                      Dimitri Botchkov              26

25 Years of Winter in the Himalaya                   Andrzej Zawada              35


Arwa Tower                                                              Mick Fowler              51

Fourth Time Lucky.on Makalu                                 Alan Hinkes              59

Of Jimmy and the Tchador                                  Dick Isherwood              63

Unknown Alone                                                          Ian Parnell             68

Bishops, Actresses and Witches ...                   Tom Chamberlain             71

Beneficiaries of Gino's Legacy                               John Gregson             80

Lightweight in the Andes                                          Pavle Kozjek             85

When Hell Freezes Over                                    Andy Kirkpatrick             88

Moroccan Climbing: Rock, Sun and Snow                  Paul Knott             94

Kagoro West Wall                                                  Michael Doyle             99

A Kind of Obsession: Climbing the Titan                     Iain Allan            103


Snow Peaks and Deep Gorge Country          Tamotsu Nakamura             113

The Exploration of the Tsangpo River

and its Mountains                                                    Michael Ward             124

Cordillera Central, Peru                                   Evelio Echevarria             131

Exploratory Climbing in the

Cordillera de Cocapata, Bolivia                              Michael Smith             138


The Ethical Responsibility of Alpine Associations    Alex Huber             147

Less is More                                                   Michael Thompson             153


The Letter                                                              Roger Croston             159

The Fifth Ascent of Mont Blanc                        Miriam C Meijer             177

The Story of an Ice Axe                                    Shigeharu Inouye             190

The Triumphs and Tragedy of Doc Graham             Frank Card              200

One Hundred Years Ago                                            C A Russell             207

AREA NOTES                              Edited by Jose Luis Bermudez             213

Contributions from:

Derek Fordham, Lindsay Griffin, David Hamilton, Paul Horton,

Harish Kapadia, Paul Knott, Bill O'Connor, Simon Richardson.

Mount Everest Foundation:

Expedition Reports 1998                 Summarised by Bill Ruthven             266

In Memoriam                         Compiled by Geoffrey Templeman            277

Book Reviews                        Compiled by Geoffrey Templeman            304

Alpine Club Notes                                                                                   344

Contributors                                                                                               360

Index                                                                                                          365

Notes for Contributors                                                                              373