Contents
SCENES FROM THE 20TH CENTURY
An Essay for the New Millennium
Reinhold Messner
3
1937 and the Pull of Ushba
Robin Hodgkin
14
About Kanjiroba
John Tyson
21
Mountaineering in the Tien Shan
Dimitri Botchkov
26
25 Years of Winter in the Himalaya
Andrzej Zawada
35
EXPEDITIONS
Arwa Tower
Mick Fowler
51
Fourth Time Lucky.on Makalu
Alan Hinkes
59
Of Jimmy and the Tchador
Dick Isherwood
63
Unknown Alone
Ian Parnell
68
Bishops, Actresses and Witches ...
Tom Chamberlain
71
Beneficiaries of Gino's Legacy
John Gregson
80
Lightweight in the Andes
Pavle Kozjek
85
When Hell Freezes Over
Andy Kirkpatrick
88
Moroccan Climbing: Rock, Sun and Snow
Paul Knott
94
Kagoro West Wall
Michael Doyle
99
A Kind of Obsession: Climbing the Titan
Iain Allan
103
EXPLORATION
Snow Peaks and Deep Gorge Country
Tamotsu Nakamura
113
The Exploration of the Tsangpo River
and its Mountains
Michael Ward
124
Cordillera Central, Peru
Evelio Echevarria
131
Cordillera de Cocapata, Bolivia
Michael Smith
138
CONTROVERSIES
The Ethical Responsibility of Alpine Associations
Alex Huber
147
Less is More
Michael Thompson
153
HISTORIES
The Letter
Roger Croston
159
The Fifth Ascent of Mont Blanc
Miriam C
Meijer
177
The Story of an Ice Axe
Shigeharu Inouye
190
The Triumphs and Tragedy of Doc Graham
Frank Card
200
One Hundred Years Ago
C A Russell
207
AREA NOTES
Edited by Jose Luis Bermudez
213
Contributions from:
Derek Fordham, Lindsay Griffin, David Hamilton, Paul Horton,
Harish Kapadia, Paul Knott, Bill O'Connor, Simon Richardson.
Expedition Reports 1998
Summarised by Bill Ruthven
266
In Memoriam
Compiled by Geoffrey Templeman
277
Book Reviews
Compiled by Geoffrey Templeman
304
Contributors
360
Index
365
