Contents

 

Direttissima on the Piz Badile     Dick Isherwood   1

Two parties on Yerupaja, 1968

      Yerupaja Traverse David Adcock    7

      The Amazon Face   Chris Jones   15

On men and mountains Fred Hoyle   23

The South face of Peak Communism, 1968   Anatoli Ovchinnikov   25

Stonefall   Dennis Gray   35

The North face of Monte Agner   Michael Mortimer   36

Ishinca valley, Cordillera Blanca, 1968   Walter Amstutz   39

Main German and Austrian climbers since 1930   Anderl Heckmair    47

The first ascent of Mukar Beh   John Ashburner   58

Suddenly all Hell broke loose   Brian Nally   67

Recent New Zealand developments   Nick von Tunzelmann   71

A long Haute Route, 1968   John Wilson   83

The Lost Arrow Chimney   Ed. Ward-Drummond   92

A flying visit to the Slovak High Tatra   Ian Clough   95

Personality and Everest  James T. Lester  101

Southern Logan Mountains, 1968   Ted Maden   108

Brenva ice   Dennis Gray   123

The Nose of El Capitan   Michael Burke   125

FitzRoy, 1968 Chris Jones   131

Man and the mountain environment   Michael Ward   133

An artist and the Dolomites   Clifford Fishwick   148

Kongen and Mongejura   Brian Thompson   150

Margins of safety   Harold Drasdo   159


Climbs and Regional Notes

Europe  169

Africa  182

Asia  

        Soviet Union   184

        Kohistan   187

        Hindu Kush   195

        Karakoram   217

        India   225

        Nepal   230

Australia  236

New Zealand   237

Antarctica   239

North America    240

       South America  

        Peru and Bolivia   247

        Chile and Argentina   273

        Patagonia   273

Greenland    276

Britain    288

Ireland 304


Accidents   307

Equipment 315

Miscellanea 340

Alpine Club and Editors' Notes   351

Other organisations and clubs   359

Book Reviews   365

Journals

In memoriam: F. P. Bowden, N. S. Finzi, H. S. Kingman,

       Brian Ripley   391

Guidance for contributors   397

Previous numbers for sale 398

Index   399